Unusual Destinations Blog

Participants: Donna Evans, Karen Harris, Sheena Knox, Angelique Buckley and Rita Bachmann

Day 1, 12 May: Antananarivo

Flying off with Airlink was a pleasure. The flight takes a mere three hours and was excellent!

Za Tours met us at the airport and everyone was introduced. Rija from Za Tours was our guide who travelled with us throughout the journey.  The face towels and the bottles of water were most welcome. A short bus ride to La Digue market where we were greeted with a first taste of Malagasy life, colourful baskets, car toys made from old tins, silk shawls and vocal vendors vying for our attention.

Check in at the Palissandre Hotel & Spa was efficiently handled. We all freshened up and left for the Lizzy Gallery for some MORE shopping. Lizzy’s boutique is always a success, I of course could not leave without another raffia box. Driving through Antananarivo gave us a good feel for this bustling city especially as traffic is very slow in peak hours so you get the chance to really observe another world.

After all this shopping we were all starving so it was off to the best restaurant in town called
“Kudeta”   – a fabulous meal with too many bottles of wine and great ambiance!

Day 2, 13 May: Charter flight Antananarivo to Masoala Peninsula

Early up and about to start off a fun day. We were transferred back to Ivato Airport in time to board our private charter with TOA Charters. The reception area is quite luxurious and offers showers for passengers who are embarking later on international flights.  Everything is done for you! All we had to do was enjoy a cup of coffee, board our seven seater Piper and head off into the blue yonder to Masoala Peninsula.
Flight time approximately 90 minutes with jaw dropping aerial views. I was amazed to see just how large the Baie of Antongile is from the air. Nosy Mangabe is centred in the middle of the Baie and I realised then why it was such a great pirate hideaway in the old days.
On arrival Paula (from Masoala Forest Lodge) met us and we were then bustled into two tatty old taxis and off to Maroantsetra harbour (Unfortunately there are just no other better cars around – this was it!). We were met by Pierre and his crew at the harbour. Now the interesting part….. we had to clamber over an old steam boat in order to board the smaller Masoala Forest Lodge boat. This boat had a canopy but beware the one hour boat ride is a rough one as you leave the canal behind and enter the sea.  To compensate for the rough journey we rewarded with breathtaking view of the lowland rainforest which actually borders the ocean.  I wondered what else was awaiting us in these forests?

Getting on terra firma it was wonderful to meet Sandra and Duncan from Masoala Forest Lodge who were waiting for us. What a lovely welcome!. We settled into the camp followed by some useful guidelines regarding the use of the lights, torches and hot water facilities. A scrumptious lunch ensued followed by a short talk from Sandra introducing the Masoala Peninsula and its quirky wildlife to us.  Next adventure…… we all headed off with Felix the local guide for a forest walk. He is the third partner of Masoala Forest Lodge. We strolled along quiet coves littered with huge boulders and turquoise sea all around – Sheena commented how the sand squeaked when we walked meaning it is pristine and untouched.  Our first sighting was is a boa constrictor followed by a number of different chameleons whilst listening to the calls of the exotic birds around us. Rija (our Za Tours guide) pointed out many of the insects, chameleons and birds. No lemurs yet…

We hopped into two traditional pirogues and were taken into a lagoon to enjoy the tranquillity of the bay. This setting was quite reminiscent of the “Madagascar” movie – the leaves seemed to have smiling faces and the trees are so huge you want to hug them.

Did we really hear the rare Helmut Vanga? We definitely had great sightings of Drongos and a cute Malagasy flycatcher.

Back to the lodge by sunset and time for a quick shower and delicious dinner. I fell asleep with all the flaps open and fell asleep listening to the torrential rain whilst tucked up warm and comfortable in my bed!

Please note

• Set meals are provided for the three main meals of the day. Meal times are flexible depending on the activities. Packed lunches are provided if the day’s activity requires it. Special food requirements or vegetarian meals or sea food, will be catered for if notified in advance. Snacks and refreshments such as  tea, coffee and fruit juice, are always available.
• Be suitably dressed for the boat trip with sun and rain protection handy and sandals and your active-wear clothing and footwear.

Day 3, 14 May: Masoala National Park

After a fresh breakfast (homemade bread, homemade yoghurt, fresh fruit etc) we started off on another into the primary rainforest of Masoala National Park to view the birds, lemurs and countless other creatures endemic to this forest. Felix and Rija were in their element.  Due to time restraints we went by boat to the entrance of the park. I just loved the view of the thick forest encompassing the mountain right down to the beaches.  Being so tropical we had a few light showers and once again the marvel of nature as you see how the canopy of the forest absorbs the rainfall and only we only felt slight drizzle. The paths are very steep and we were grateful for our sturdy shoes which are a must to grip the slippery paths.  You need to wear long pants to protect your skin as well.  Remember to cover your cameras against the damp.

The sounds of the forest are an amazing, the trees are get bigger and bigger and are festooned with orchids and Tarzan like vines growing everywhere. Finally the rain stopped to our relief but this was short lived as a few minutes later the heavens opened again. Our raincoats proved invaluable. Since it was warm I decided just get drenched and live with it!  On a happier note did we hear the red-ruffed lemurs?  Yes! We finally get a up close and personal sighting of them on top of the mountain. Just the two of them are playing in the trees and needless to say we are all mesmerised and push on into the thick forest to get even closer.  The lemurs seem to share the same fascination with us humans and watch us with the same intent.

Towards midday we walked back to the beach along a river (which I proceed to fall into – in the most ladylike way I must admit). I was able to save my backpack with my goodies in it. Picked myself up and on we went amidst the mirth of my fellow companions.

Back to the camp for a well earned lunch and well earned afternoon siesta.  Donna and I felt energetic and decided to try out kayaking around the baie.  Comfortable kayaks (two man) warm water and  peaceful surroundings.

A pre-dinner night walk reveals relatively little, the mouse lemurs are not cooperating and stay well hidden. We found a couple of sleepy birds and some very annoyed chameleons and spiders.

Yet another great meal (fresh fish, vegetables and vanila cream made out of vanila crops from the area). My last night under the canvas tent listening to the sounds of the forest. I am sad to leave  this little Eden.

Day 4, 15 May: Masoala to Anjajavy

Up and early again to head off on our boat transfer to Maroantsetra. The boat ride is rough and we are all tired and heartsore to leave. A quick stop at Relais de Masoala (small lodge) to freshen up after the 90 minute boat trip. Many of our clients stay the first or last night at this hotel with its lovely gardens and comfortable rooms. It has a swimming pool and a great location along the inland canal.  Road transfer back to the airport where our charming pilot was waiting for us.

Take off and most of us slept on the plane ride. The one hour flight to Anjajavy is a delight for me, I have never flown this route and I am amazed at the high mountains and plateaus below us on descent to the Anjajavy area.

Another great landing on a private airstrip. Anna from Anjajavy met us. A quick pee pee stop (they have facilities at the airstrip) and we drive 30 minutes in a small bakkie (ute) to Anjajavy Hotel. Hurray… we spot our first Sifaka lemurs. This wakes us all up!

On arrival we are so impressed with the reception area which has amazing views over the swimming pool and Indian Ocean – it really takes your breath away. Anjajavy is truly beautiful and unspoiled.  The staff were charming and did your check in very professionally and speedily. Soon armed with a cocktail in our hands and short briefing of the resort we teetered off to our luxury bungalows.

After being in a tropical humid like such as Masoala it was a delight to have dry clothing and climate. Lunch was served in the chic restaurant and then it was more siesta time to chill and enjoy the rest of the afternoon.  Did I tell you about the Sifaka Lemurs I saw on my way to lunch? Chilling in the low branches I got some great sightings. What a pleasure seeing these beautiful animals so close with such ease.

We met up again for a pre-dinner night walk and we could not believe our luck. The mouse lemurs were perky and running up and down the trees for us like little showmen. Chameleons, nocturnal birds and the highlight for me was the Sportive Lemur we came upon at the end of the walk. Tick, tick the list.

Dinner was served in the main restaurant and the hotel went to town with the décor and ambiance.  We were entertained by the local village dancers who introduced Malagasy animals and showed us traditional dances from all over Madagascar.

A busy day under our belts and we all fell into bed and slept like babies. The bungalows are spacious and well laid out. The verandas offer incredible views of the ocean and for for some of us the air-conditioning was a treat!.

Day 5, 16 May: Anjajavy

Morning at leisure. I woke up  full of energy and went off to explore the seven private beaches and made sure that I swam in each cove. I interrupted across a flock of Sicklebilled Vangas and we all frighten each other. My running disturbed a few snakes on the path as well…..I loved the solitude of these beaches knowing my footsteps were the first this morning.

Anjajavy organises beach picnics for all our guests and it is so unique to have a beach completely to yourselves in this crazy world we live in. Whilst I was discovering the beaches, my travel companions were treating themselves to deserved massages. We all met up for lunch and exchanged stories.

Anna fetches us at 15h00 and we are off  to Moromba Bay for a sundowner excursion.  This bay is known for its mushroom-like outcrops and Baobabs on the beaches. We get the chance to see the Sakalalva graves deeply hidden in the rugged cliffs and two Fish Eagles show off above us. How perfect was this day.

Our farewell dinner tonight is at the poolside and it sets the tone for a fun evening and lots of laughs.  I am sure I am not the only one sad to be leaving this amazing island.

Day 6, 17 May: Anjajavy – Antananarivo and flight out.

Our pilot awaits us, luggage is stored away and we board our small plane for the last time. 90 minutes and we are back in the midst of Antananarivo. Last minute shopping (girls love shopping!) before we check  in for our Airlink flight back to Johannesburg. A few lumpy throats, hugs and good byes before we head back to Johannesburg.

Packing suggestions

• Documents
• Passport, air ticket/s
• Visas (we will get our visas on arrival, no costs involved).
• Photocopy of the first 4 pages of your passport (to be kept separate from your passport);
• Money – cash and travellers cheques (keep copies of serial numbers in a separate location); VISA credit cards can only be used in Antananarivo at Palissandre Hotel, restaurant and at Hotel Anjajavy)
• Money belt.

Clothing

• Sun- or bush-hat;
• T-shirts and one long-sleeved cotton shirt;
• Rain jacket
• Shorts, skirts, long trousers;
• Tracksuit, jersey, anorak for the cool mornings
• Sturdy, comfortable shoes with a good grip (tennis shoes/takkies or track shoes are fine); thongs/slip slops/beach shoes
• Swimming costume
• Be suitably dressed for the boat trip from Maroantsetra to Masoala Forest Lodge. Have sun and rain protection handy and sandals and your active-wear clothing.
• Good quality sunglasses preferably polarised. Tinted fashion sunglasses are not much good in harsh light;
• Camera equipment.
• Zip-lock plastic bags to keep your camera free of dust;
• A good torch, spare batteries and bulb;
• Binoculars;

Toiletries

• Basic medical kit including Lomotil / Immodium, aspirin, plasters, antiseptic cream, rehydrate (Game), malaria prophylactics, etc.;
• Moisturising cream & suntan lotion;
• Anti-histamine cream;
• Insect repellent, e.g. Peaceful Sleep, Tabard and Doom;
• Feminine hygiene products;
• If you wear contact lenses we recommend that you bring along a pair of glasses in case you get eye irritation from the dust; solutions and cleansers.

Madagascar hotels

Antananarivo

Antananarivo, the island’s capital city with a population of 2 000 000 is situated at 1 370m above sea level. Picturesque with its many hills, traditional houses scattered on the hillside and numerous rice paddies this town is full of character. Tana, as the city is often called, has unusual French and Asian inspired architecture and winding cobblestone streets and staircases that create a medieval impression. Walk around Avenue de l’Independence, the capital’s main street and enjoy the bustling vibe of the city and the many street cafes. Other attractions include the colourful daily flower market on the edge of Lake Anosy and the botanical and zoological gardens (Tsimbazaza), where you can see the egg and 3m tall skeleton of the extinct aepyornis, or elephant bird. Sadly, the Rova (Queen’s Palace) burned to the ground in 1996. The palace is currently being rebuilt and there are nice views of the city.

There is a selection of good restaurants in Antananarivo, some of which are of a high standard. Amongst the best are: Le Restaurant, La Boussole, O Poivre Vert, Kudeta and Cafe de la Gare.

Palissandre Hotel & Spa ****

Perched on the slopes of a hill, 5 minutes drive from the business centre of Tana. Stunning views over the town. The Palissandre has 46 spacious rooms, reflecting traditional Malagasy architecture with pink-coloured bricks, Matasoa stone, rosewood and marble. It offers all the facilities of a modern business and leisure hotel. 42 standard rooms and 6 family suites. All bedrooms are equipped with TV, air-conditioning, telephones, room safe, mini bar, bathroom with shower, hair-dryer and a desk. There is a small gym, a spa and a lovely garden restaurant with umbrellas and swimming pool area with recliners. English speaking reception.

Pavillon de l’Emyrne ***+

Pavillon de L’Emyrne, a charming and traditional guesthouse is situated in the city centre close to a choice of excellent restaurants. This upmarket boutique guesthouse has a choice of room types from standard rooms (3) superior rooms (8) and prestige suites (2). Each room has an enclosed patio and all rooms have tea and coffee facilities, mini bar, air-conditioning, safe, telephone, hair-dryer and television. Each room has an en suite bathrooms but no actual baths, only showers. The garden is a haven of peace and a welcome respite from the busy city.

The dining room is charming and airy with lots of windows looking out onto the garden and original art work is displayed on the walls. Breakfast is served in the dining room.

Masoala

Masoala Peninsula

Masoala has been described as the last Eden on earth…and as you glide down the Antalavia River in a dugout canoe, you can understand why. With its lush tropical rainforests leading right down to ocean’s edge and mist-covered mountains providing an ever present moody backdrop, Masoala Peninsula is one of the world’s only remaining untouched destinations and home to Madagascar’s largest national park – Parc National Masoala.

With its three marine reserves and unparalleled diversity of flora and fauna, Masoala is the only place where you can encounter one of the most beautiful lemurs in the world and two of the planet’s most rare bird species – the serpent eagle and the red owl.  And with 2435 species of plants to call their playground, the area is teeming with exotic frogs, insects, and other curious creatures. If you pay attention, you might encounter the startling fringed gecko Uroplatus fimbriatus. The largest of the known species of leaf-tailed geckos and a genus confined to Madagascar, this character is known to make barking sounds and is sometimes mistaken for a dead leaf.

Your journey will not only allow you to touch and feel the magnificence of the park, but will contribute to preserving the magic of Masoala. The eco-tourism activities of the Masoala Forest Lodge form part of an international conservation program, and provide a valuable source of sustainable income for local communities.

Maroantsetra, Relais du Masoala ***

Set in a lush coconut grove by the bay, overlooking Nosy Mangabe and with the Masoala Peninsula as a backdrop, this is an oasis of peace, warmth and charming simplicity acclaimed as an exceptional eco-tourism development. 15 spacious palm-thatched bungalows ensuite (shower & WC). The food, including picnic lunches, is excellent. Swimming pool and games. This is the gateway to the eco-tourist destination Masoala Peninsula and Nosy Mangabe.

Tampolo, Masoala Forest Lodge ***

Located in the heart of the wild Masoala Peninsula at Tampolo is a rustic bush camp. Set behind a line of hardwood trees and facing the golden beach sands are six double “African Safari-style” tents with thatched protective roofs, built on wooden decks. The verandas have hammocks for those afternoon siestas. The tents are fully netted and furnished, providing the full experience of sleeping under canvas in the wilds, without any of the discomforts associated with camping. The main communal living area where you can find books and games is made of local Malagasy wood. Bathrooms and toilet huts are now en-suite.

Meals are a blend of Swiss & Malagasy rainforest cuisine using fresh fish and local produce. Activities include walks (day and night) in the primary rainforest, guided sea kayaking, and snorkelling, whale watching and fishing. Access to the lodge is by boat from the small town of Maroantsetra. The primary rainforest of Masoala National Park, rich in wildlife, is a short walk in any direction and numerous birds, reptiles and mammals are found in the camp itself.

Specials:

• Honeymooners: valid throughout the year
• Special discounted prices apply. Special dinners on the beach are arranged and the couple stays in the most spacious and private tent.

Activities and day trips

Activities included in your package (3 and 4 night stays):

• Guided walks in the primary and coastal forest of Masoala National Park with an official guide, English and French speaking.
• Guided nocturnal walks in the surrounding coastal forest.
• Guided visit to the local village of Ambodiforaha to experience the local culture and traditional way of Malagasy life.
• Guided sea kayaking on the sheltered coastal waters, subject to weather conditions.
• Guided pirogue trip in the Tampolo River.
• Snorkelling equipment provided.
• Traditional music-dance show in the evening.

Also included for longer stays:

• Day trips to Antalavia River, on foot or by kayak and returning by boat.

Additional payable activities:

• Day trips to Antalavia River, on foot or by kayak and returning by boat.  (Minimum 2 clients). Euro 50 per person.
• Day trip to Cap Masoala by boat, including a picnic lunch and snorkelling on the deserted island of Nosy Behentona. (Minimum 2 clients). Euro 80 per person.
• Boat fishing. Euro 30 per person for up to 3 hours.
• Whale watching. Euro 30 per person for up to 3 hours.

Anjajavy

Nosy Mangabe

While it is possible to camp on Nosy Mangabe, we do not recommend it due to the basic facilities and the impact on the environment.

Sea Kayak Expeditions

Sea Kayak expeditions on the Masoala Peninsula are offered during the months of May and October to December.

Please note: Masoala Forest Lodge

The Masoala Forest Lodge accommodates a maximum of 12 clients (sharing).

• Boat transfers are generally made in the mornings only.
• Boat fishing, whale watching and excursions to other sites on the peninsula are available.
• All meals, water and soft drinks included. Alcoholic Beverages are payable.
• Guided sea kayaking, snorkelling and river excursions by traditional canoe included.
• 30 % non refundable deposit requested at the time of booking.
• Masoala Forest Lodge is closed from 1 Feb to 31 Mar.
• Please read our information pages “Masoala what you need to know”.

Anjajavy Crique en Crique_walk

Hotel Anjajavy – Relais & Chateaux: ****

Situated 120 km north of Mahajanga is the luxury Anjajavy Hotel. It is built on a peninsula in a large bay and surrounded by a 450 hectare reserve of dry deciduous woodland – perfect for nature lovers!  There is no road to Anjajavy. Anjajavy lies in the heart of the Menabe Sakalava territory. There are signposted paths through the bush and forest.

Anjajavy can be accessed by plane from Antananarivo or Nosy Be. An extraordinary change of scenery is guaranteed as soon as you take off! After a flight of low altitude vistas of the scenery, you will land on a private runway on the Anjajavy peninsula.

A large swimming pool faces the ocean. The beach in front of your villa is reserved for sunbathing and swimming. A second beach with a marina offers the following water sports: Sailing boats, windsurfing, canoes, snorkelling, aqua gym, ski boarding, fishing boat excursions (to see the Morombe Bay, la Garconniere des Dieux…).

A small oasis of (Caillebotis sp) Palissandre (trees) offering welcome shade. This garden known as the oasis attracts a variety of birds and lemurs is a relaxing place for afternoon tea served here every afternoon at 17:00.

The forest surrounding Anjajavy is home to the daytime lemurs, Coquerel’s Sifaka and Brown Lemur which are easy to see. Nocturnal lemurs here include Mouse Lemurs, Fat-tailed Dwarf Lemur and Milne-edwards Sportive-lemur. Many species of bird occur here including Madagascar Buzzard, Grey-headed Lovebird, Tototoroka Scops-0wl, Sickle-billed and White-headed vangas, and Red-capped Coua. Madagascar Flying Fox are common in the nearby mangroves. Botanically this is a very interesting area with amazing groves of Baobab (Adansonia madagascariensis), Pachypodium, Euphorbia, Combretum and Albizia species, three species of palm and magnificent examples of Cycas thouarsii and many, many others.

The Bungalows

All 24 villas are built of Palissandre wood. Each villa boasts a spacious sea facing terrace with your hammock, a lounge, a breakfast area and a bedroom with a queen size bed with mosquito netting. A narrow set of stairs take one to aloft room with twin beds (ideal for children). The bathroom has a large bathtub, overhead shower and a separate toilet. Individual air-conditioning systems ensure your room always remains cool. Other amenities are: tea/coffee making facilities and a mini fridge (stocked with bottled water and other drinks on request).

Anjajavy offers a fine dining experience. Meals are French-inspired and highly dependent on seasonal availability. Malagasy dishes are on offer for those who wish to experience the local specialities. Breakfast offers everything from fresh seasonal fruit, croissants and yoghurts to a full English Breakfast. The lunch menu offers 3 to 5 choices per course. Meals are usually plated and the menu changes every 2 to 3 days. Dinner is a small fine dining 3-course meal with 2 to 3 choices per course. Beach barbeques are also arranged. Dinners in “the Oasis”, on the beach or on the villa terrace can be arranged.

Anjajavy

Activities

An excursion by boat to Morombe Bay is truly worthwhile as this is the best area in Madagascar to observe the rare and endangered Madagascar Fish-eagle.

Other activities include volleyball, mountain biking, tennis-table, pool, boulle, badminton, massages and nature walks. Twice daily walks along well laid out paths through the forests and near to the beaches with a local guide; the morning walk leaves at 09:30 and afternoon walk leaves at 16:30; tea is served in the oasis every day at 17:00.

Fishing – World class all year although July and August are not the best for fishing because of the wind; however June is the beginning of the Sailfish season and August is the beginning of the Marlin season. Other fish include Yellow-fin Tuna, Wahoo, King Mackerel, Dog-tooth Tuna and other big pelagic fish.

Free activities

Catamaran, windsurfing, snorkelling, canoe in the sea and mangroves, swimming pool, billiards, volley ball, excursions and walks into the forests.

Anjajavy offers a wide variety of walks which guests can either do unguided with a map or with one of the hotel guides. Picnics in the reserve can be arranged. Regular night walks are organised to discover Anjajavy’s remarkable nocturnal inhabitants. Anjajavy is also involved with the local community and guests are encouraged to visit the local villages.

Payable activities

Fishing

• Sport fishing    per hour per boat        € 85
• Popper fishing     per hour per boat        € 65

Boating

• Sunset cruise in the mangroves with aperitif    € 25/person
• Morombe Bay                    € 50/person
• Water ski per ½ hour                € 20

Bicycle

• Package for the stay                € 10/person

Massages

• Relaxing, slimming or dynamic 30 minutes    € 20
• Relaxing, slimming or dynamic 60 minutes    € 30

Please note

• Fishing excursions cannot be guaranteed unless booked in advance. Fly fishermen have to advise if they need equipment.
• Maximum weight of baggage 20kg.
• Satellite telephone and internet connection available on request from reception. Satellite television available in the lounge.
• Payment methods accepted at the hotel: Visa Card, traveller’s cheques and cash.
• A 20% non-refundable deposit is requested at time of booking.
• Minimum stay is 7 nights during peak season 19 Dec -4 Jan.
• Special conditions apply for groups (more than 9 clients).
• Minimum stay throughout the year is 3 nights.

Flight times

• 90 minutes from Antananarivo to Anjajavy
• 75 minutes from Nosy Be to Anjajavy
• Guests are met at the Anjajavy landing strip and are transferred in an open 4×4 to the hotel (~15 minute drive).

Access to Anjajavy is by scheduled air charter (usually a Cessna Caravan)
Flight times (subject to change) Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays.

* Anjajavy local time (= Madagascar time + 1 h)

Tuesdays
Antananarivo – Anjajavy     07:00 – 08:30
Anjajavy – Antananarivo        09:30 – 11:00

Thursdays
Antananarivo – Anjajavy     07:00 – 08:30
Anjajavy – Antananarivo        09:30 – 11:00

Anjajavy – Nosy Be        on request
Nosy Be – Anjajavy        on request

Saturdays
Antananarivo – Anjajavy     07:00 – 08:30
Anjajavy – Antananarivo        09:30 – 11:00

Private charter flights available on request (extra cost) for convenient daily connections.

Anjajavy

Specials

• Honeymoon special: 5 Jan – 31 Oct 2010
• Minimum stay is 5 nights. 50% discount on accommodation with full board for the bride. Extras offered: a massage for two, a romantic dinner and sunset cruise.
• Free nights: 1 May – 12 Jul 2010
• Pay for 6 nights and stay for 7 or pay for 10 nights and stay for 12.
• Free nights: 13 Jul – 31 Oct 2010
• Pay for 10 nights and stay for 11.
• Early bird offer: Book a 7 night stay at Anjajavy 6 or more months in advance and receive € 150 resort credit per villa redeemable only against services proved by Anjajavy Hotel.

Madagascar wildlife – species list

Separated from the African mainland for 160 million years and from India for 90 million years, its wildlife has evolved independently. Of all its animals, lemurs have been studied the most intensively and have received much attention from the conservation community and tourists. Currently there are about 71 species (new ones are being identified frequently).

Masoala walk

Masoala National Park

Mammals:

• Red ruffed lemur
• White fronted brown lemur
• Eastern woolly lemur
• Eastern fork-marked lemur
• Aye-aye lemur
• Mouse lemur
• Malagasy striped civet
• Falanouc
• Easter ring-tailed mongoose
• Lowland red forest rat
• Greater hedgehog tenrec
• Lowland streaked tenrec

Birds:

Much sought after but very difficult to see, are the

• Madagascar serpent eagle
• Madagascar red owl
• Benier’s vanga.

Regularly seen are the

• Helmet vanga
• Nuthatch vanga
• Red-breasted coua
• Scaly ground-roller
• Short-legged ground roller
• Madagascar wood rail
• Velvet asity

Reptiles and frogs:

• Panther chameleon
• Boettger’s chameleon
• Stump-tailed chameleon
• Leaf-tailed gecko
• Day gecko
• Tomato frog
• Green-backed mantilla frog

Anjajavy

Anjajavy

Mammals:

• Coquerel’s Sifaka
• Common brown lemur
• Mouse lemur
• Sportive lemur
• Madagascar flying fox
• Greater hedgehog tenrec
• Fosa

Birds:

Many endemics are easy to see. Coastal excursions provide excellent opportunities for sighting the

• Madagascar fish eagle
• Madagascar sacred ibis (very rare)

Other species include:

• Madagascar crested ibis
• Greater vasa parrot
• Grey-headed lovebird
• Red-capped coua
• Coquerel’s coua
• Crested coua
• Madagascar green pigeon
• Sickle-billed vanga
• Madagascar pygmy kingfisher

Reptiles:

• Ostalet’s chameleon
• Collared iguanid
• Fish-scaled gecko
• Madagascar giant day gecko
• Madagascar ground boa
• Madagascar hognose snake

General information
Reunion Island (otherwise known as La Réunion) was uninhabited until the mid-17th century, when it became a stopover on the burgeoning trade routes. The island was valued for its abundance of fresh water which was available near the coast. As a result, many navigators – Arabic, Portuguese and English – visited Reunion, which appeared on numerous maps under different names.
The French were first to inhabit Reunion. They used it as a prison, or rather a penal colony, for undesirables from Madagascar. The Kingdom of France then tried to penetrate the south of the Big Island, located 700km further west. In 1638, the small volcanic island became known as Bourbon, “possession of the king”. An engraved rock on the shore marked the occasion, and today Bourbon belongs to the community that calls itself the interesting name: La Possession!

Geography

Reunion is a small island that’s almost round in shape: a main road goes all the way around it, over 240 kilometres (150 miles). Born of two major volcanic events, the island takes the form of a mountain rising out of the ocean.
The first volcano occurred two-and-a-half million years ago. The magma gushing out of the crater spread around and into the ocean, making up what is today the high point of the island: the Piton des Neiges (snow peak), measuring 3 069 metres.
The second volcanic event occurred 380 000 years ago, about 30 kilometres to the southeast. A new volcanic mound formed and became attached to the first. This is how the Piton de la Fournaise (Furnace Peak), measuring 2,632m, was formed. It is still active today and regularly erupts, offering a spectacle all the more enchanting as you can safely approach lava flows and fountains.
Today, at the centre of the island are three gigantic basins: Mafate, Cilaos and Salazie.
Resulting from enormous collapses, these basins are open to the sea via narrow passages. They constitute one of the island’s major attractions. Surrounded by walking paths, they offer nature lovers a spectacle of wooded gorges and extraordinary waterfalls.
The coastal plains are narrow, the slopes rising rapidly. The coral has not yet created a barrier all around the island to form a vast lagoon, but in time it will. The coral forms a discontinuous reef of about 15 kilometres (10 miles) to the west and south of the island.
Beyond the smooth turquoise waters and white sandy shoreline, the reef rapidly gives way to the great depths, just as it happens near the majestic basalt cliffs.
Reunion’s wild, rugged terrain makes for fascinating exploration.

Climate
Reunion’s climate is tropical. Temperatures are affected by elevation. The average coastal temperature is between 64°F and 88°F (18°C to 31°C), with temperatures dropping in the interior. Humidity is high.
The island has two seasons: summer and winter. November to April is hot and rainy, while May to October is usually dry and cool and is the popular time for travel to Réunion. The cyclone season runs from mid-November to mid-April and the island is occasionally affected.
Like the rest of Reunion, Saint Denis has a tropical climate. Temperatures in the capital range between 70°F and 79°F (21°C to 26°C). November to April is hot and rainy, while the rest of the year is slightly cooler and drier. Humidity is high, particularly on the east coast. Saint-Denis is home to the Indian Ocean’s only tropical cyclone monitoring centre, although the island itself is only affected occasionally.
A blue and green island
Because of this steep terrain, human activities take place at the coast, where the following principal towns are situated: Saint Denis, the administrative centre; Saint Paul, the first “capital”; and Saint Pierre, the most southerly town. The beautiful Creole architecture that characterises these towns has been well preserved.
On the shore, at Saint Gilles and Saint Leu, as well as at l’Etang-Salé, a breeze blows all year long. The high basins and plains are typically rural and populated with well-kept cabins, fields hugging the slopes and pastures dotted with herds. Sugarcane forms a green belt around the island, only interrupted in the southeast by the imposing dome of the volcano.
The rugged terrain doesn’t leave much room for agriculture. The volcanic mountain, carpeted with vegetation and waterfalls, reigns supreme.
The original forest is still visible at Bébour-Bélouve, in the Plaine-des-Palmistes region, or at Mare-Longue, near Saint Philippe. A unique species of tree, the “Tamarin des Hauts”, grows in the high-lying woods.
Hence, Reunion offers a diverse landscape of lush vegetation and rocky terrain, as well as beaches, tropical heat and fresh mountain air.

A celebration of nature
Reunion’s inhabitants value their island’s plant life. Whether you’re a botanist, an amateur gardener or a plant lover, Reunion’s flora will inspire you. In this tiny land lost in the middle of a vast ocean, indigenous plants abound on the coast and in the high-lying forests.
Man’s arrival in Reunion introduced alien plant species to the island. Today, for instance, palm trees from around the world stand alongside the native Bourbon latanier palm.
Reunion’s fauna consist of sea and air creatures. The elegant Tropicbird is the national bird; it nests in the cliffs near the ocean. The Papangue is a bird of prey that circles around the basins and ravines, while Java deer frolic about in the forests.
The ocean teems with life even close to the shore. The reef “slope” provides a habitat for both coral and the sea creatures and plants. Beyond the reef starts the kingdom of large migratory fish such Blue Marlin, Common Dolphinfish, Sailfish, Tuna, Barracuda and a host of fish that are caught for commercial purposes.
Language
With its history of explorers from various continents, the original inhabitants were hard-pressed to communicate. In order to understand one another, the then colony forged a vernacular language: Creole, derived from Old French and spiced up with words from Malagasy, Hindi and Tamali.
Although Creole is still spoken today, the official language is French, spoken by the vast majority of the population.
Religion and customs
Despite their historical attachment to France, Reunion’s citizens remain proud of their respective roots. Muslims, Catholics and Hindus live alongside one another and religion forms a large part of life for these islanders.
In the towns, the calls of the muezzin often answer the bells of the churches, while incense burns under the impassive eye of Buddha.
Some descendants of slaves still perpetuate the “Malagasy service”, a rite of homage to their ancestors.
Even though Catholicism is the most practised faith, the Hindu community gives the island its most remarkable customs. Hinduism shows its colours on the façades of the island’s many temples. In October and November, Deepavali, the “festival of lights”, draws thousands of faithful. In addition processions and spectacular “fire walking” are organised to the rhythm of an ancient calendar.
Maloya, a moving hybrid of blues music, originated from the island’s slaves, while Sega music reflects both European and African influences.
In Reunion, the expression of culture is a reflection of its inhabitants: everyone is free to commemorate and celebrate their customs.
Gastronomy as a Creole way of life
The island’s cuisine is as diverse as its population. No dish has kept its original flavour, thanks to influences from Bourbonese, French, Indian and Chinese recipes.
The two dishes every visitor should taste are Lamb Masala, an Indian recipe, and curry. Curry is the major local speciality. It takes the form of a meat, fish or shellfish stew prepared with garlic, onions, ginger, cloves, turmeric and other local spices. Curries are served with white rice and “grains” such as beans, broad beans or lentils, topped with a spicy condiment made from tomatoes, lemon and pistachios called rougail.
However, sausage rougail is a smoked sausage curry: nothing to do with the condiment. The same goes for smoked rougail, which is a smoked pork curry.

In the Creole culture, it is very important to eat well. Cooking remains an art, and secrets are passed from mother to daughter across the generations.
In the old days, rice was the main course. Although rice remains an integral part of  traditional cuisine, it is now the accompanying food that’s the focus.

Craftsmanship
Over the years, craftsmanship has increased in popularity, mainly due to increased tourism to the island. Besides the typical tourist souvenirs like T-shirts, books, food products like vanilla, DVDs and CDs, some items made in Reunion are quite rare. Examples of these include items made from tortoise-shell (jewellery, lacquered boxes and boxes with tortoise-shell inlay) and fish skin (shagreen). You will also find objects made from woven vegetable fibres.

In your suitcase
Bring light cotton clothes (preferably white). Trousers and long-sleeved shirts are recommended as this will reduce the area of skin exposed to mosquito bites.
Take a good pair of walking shoes.
Don’t forget your swimming costume, a hat and sunglasses.
Dress codes: casual by day, smart-casual by night.

Health
The water can be drunk everywhere.
There is no special danger with respect to fruit or vegetables in Reunion.
Bring anti-fever medicine based on Paracetemol.
Wear sunscreen with a high SPF and quality sunglasses.
Long clothing (especially at the start and end of the day) is essential, preferably in white as this colour tends to repel the virus-carrying Aedes mosquito.
Use repellants on exposed areas of the skin.

La Possession
At the foot of the North Cliff, ensconced between the communes of Saint Denis and Le Port, La Possession was once the place people had to pass through to get from the north to the south of the island.
Mountains and the ocean seem to surround La Possession in an impregnable grip. Today, thanks to better transport links, La Possession is home to most people working in the North and South of the island.
La Possession has hidden spots of beauty that explorers have discovered over time. They include Roche Vert-Bouteille, Dos-d’Ane, Roche-Ecrite, Mafate, and Ilet-à-Malheur.
In addition, visitors will find a beautiful wild coastline and other beaches at Grand Anse and Manapany, further south of the town. The town opens up to the mountain more gradually than at Saint-Denis. The rise to the green hinterland of Tampon, Entre-Deux or Hauts de Petite Ile is less spectacular.
The greatest appeal of the South lies in its wild coastline (from Grand Bois to Tremblet) and its forests (Saint Philippe, Mare-Longue, Basse-Vallée). The Heights are also breathtakingly beautiful, thanks to its flower-covered slopes that stretch from Tampon to Hauts de Saint Joseph.
Petite Ile is a charming village, so named for being the only small island around Reunion’s coast. Grand Anse is a wild beach different from those in the West. Saint Joseph is a typical farming village, while the entire Saint Philippe coastline takes the form of a huge cliff face pounded by the sea.
After the little town of Saint Philippe, the National Road crosses the Grand Brûlé, while has been characterised by successive lava flows since the beginning of time. There are no houses for about 30km.

Saint Denis
Saint Denis was the second town founded in Reunion, after Saint Paul. In the mid-17th century, the site of the future Saint Denis was just a wild corner where a fort was due to be built. Originally, there stood a few grass huts around a flagpole intended to guide seamen. Etienne Regnault, who brought the first 20 French people to the island in 1665, wanted to develop this northern region. Regnault did not have the time to carry out his plans. They were taken over by Mahé de Labourdonnais who, in 1735, made Saint Denis his Bourbon capital and administrative centre.
Saint Denis became a town in 1689. By the end of the 19th century, schools, roads, culture and industry were thriving here.

In a similar vein to Mexico’s Festival of the Dead, the bone turning ceremonies in Madagascar honour the ancestors in a celebration where laughing and weeping are both perfectly normal.

Just south of the capital is the colourful little town of Antsirabe, where the ruling Merina tribe also live. Patric Niaina owns an intricately painted rickshaw there, and ferries locals around in his hand-drawn taxi. But, today he’s taken the day off work and donned his smartest outfit for a trip into the hills just outside of town. It’s a big day for him. His family is holding an auspicious bone-turning ceremony to honour their ancestors, and Patric is not missing it for anything.

With Patric navigating, we wind along well worn sand roads, through the mountains but see absolutely no sign of a ceremony. Then as we round a corner, there is a heaving gathering of people on the hillside. The national flag is being held high and people are milling around energetically. “That’s the famadihana,” says Patric, “it has already started.”

It’s a hot, dusty afternoon, and we arrive to a cacophony of music, singing and raucous revelry. Rice and rum are everywhere, being served from little stalls under rainbow umbrellas. We are quickly enfolded in dust and fresh rum fumes, and are definitely the only sober guests there. But, in a bid to change that, we are quickly handed a bottle of rum for an obligatory swig. It tastes like swallowing razor blades, but this is the traditional brew of Madagascar, and there is no way around it today.

The tomb has already been opened and the crowd mills around the entrance, some weeping, others laughing, some seemingly indifferent to the magnitude of the occasion. A family will save for five to 10 years to be able to afford such a ceremony, because it entails mountains of rice and plenty of rum, as well as new shrouds, gifts and the prized zebu cattle that are slaughtered as part of the ritual.

First one skeletal mummy is carried out of the tomb, rolled in a hand-woven grass mat and held high above the surrounding crowd. Then another and another emerges, until five family members are lying side by side on the grass – their heads facing east. Some of the living family draw near to tell the latest news and happenings in the village, others ask for advice, and still others stand in silence and simply watch the proceedings.

Not wanting to impose, we keep moving back in the crowd, but are constantly yanked forwards to be a part of the ceremony and to see exactly what is going on. It’s difficult to hear what is being said, amidst all the singing and chanting, laughing and crying – and liberal swigging of rum from bottles being passed through the crowd. But we respectfully oblige and stand with the family.

Then the mats are gently unrolled by chosen family members, and each mummy is wrapped in a new white shroud to cover the old one. All the time, the family continues talking to their dead ancestors as if they were perfectly alive and part of the party. It is an almost surreal experience for western eyes, but one we will never forget. The Malagasy reverence and respect for their ancestors is deep and real.

Patric stands with us, rum in hand and watches as intently as we do. “This is a big day for the family,” he says sipping his neat rum, “and it is very special that you are here. It is a blessing and good luck for us.” Then, an elder places a small gift on the chest of each mummy and inscribes their name on the shroud – in felt tip marker pen. A new straw hat and a photograph of each ancestor are also placed on their chests. In between proceedings, a childless woman tears a tiny piece of shroud to place under her pillow in the hope of bearing children, and another lovingly strokes the skeletal remains of her grandmother.

Then after more rum, and with plenty of dancing and singing, the crowd gives the ancestors a jovial send off – back into the cool tomb. It will be a good few years before the family will host another bone turning ceremony, but they start saving for it immediately.

While the Merina and Betsileo tribes are the only ones to practice bone-turning ceremonies in Madagascar, each of the 18 tribes on the island have rituals to honour the dead. Because, for the Malagasy, death is the most important part of life and the dead have far more power than the living.

With the mummies all safely back in the family tomb, celebrations start winding down. It’s been three days of full throttle revelry for the crowd, and they are growing weary. Rum fumes still permeate the air, as the last guests settle down to enjoy bowls of rice. Patric has settled in with his family and we afford him privacy and head back to Antsirabe. But first, we respectfully thank him for allowing us to attend this personal ritual, and hand him a bottle of rum as a traditional gift. “Thank you,” he says, “the honour was all mine.” And with a rum-soaked smile, he screws off the cap and takes a long swig.

If you’re a wildlife enthusiast and have a ‘bucket list’ of things to see and do before you die, Africa has plenty to offer. In no particular order, here are five wildlife highlights that just have to be seen to be believed.

Dancing Sifakas – Berenty, Madagascar

Seeing these quirky creatures dance between the trees will give you a full belly laugh, or possibly stun you into bemused silence. Sifakas dancing are truly the most bizarre site I have ever seen; just thinking of it makes me laugh.

Because sifakas’ feet are designed for grasping trees, they can’t walk on flat ground. But sometimes the trees they feed in are too far apart for them to jump, which is their usual practice – so they have to dance across the flat ground between them. It’s a kind of sifaka tango.

These Verreaux’s Sifakas have velvety cream coats and jet black faces with a permanently bemused look on them. Their beady brown eyes always look startled and alert, so just looking at their quizzical faces raises a laugh. Then when they side step, pirouette and continue on their dance, well, it’s just side splitting. They spend as little time as possible on the ground, so the dance is fast, followed by a quick jump onto a tree branch where they carry on feeding – as if nothing ever happened.

Berenty in the south of Madagascar is the easiest place to see the dance. Of course they don’t dance on cue, so you may need to be patient and wait a while. But it will be absolutely worth it.

The Annual Wildebeest Migration – Serengeti, Tanzania

The photographs can never tell the story, and while film footage gives a better idea of the scale of the migration, there are not really words to explain being surrounded by millions of moaning wildebeest mingling with zebra.

It’s like looking at an ant colony on a macro scale. As far as you can see, horizon to horizon, there is nothing but wildebeest. They stand around grunting for hours on end, chase each other playfully and generally are just being wildebeest. Then, when the chief zebra advises the head wildebeest it’s time to move, they all start trotting – pied piper style.

I was in a Land Rover in the middle of the herd, and the sound of a few million hooves on sand is like deafening thunder rolling past. The entire herd seems to think with a single mind, called by the literal green grass on the other side of the Mara River in Kenya.

They run and rest all the way from Serengeti to the Masai Mara, crossing first the Grumeti then the Mara rivers. They leap in faith into the rivers, and by the end of the migration all the crocodiles have full bellies. Some of these crocodiles only eat once a year during the migration, yet they are still the biggest Nile crocodiles in all of Africa.

For me, the migration was overwhelming, breathtaking and a clear demonstration of the triumph of animal instinct and natural selection. During June and July every year, the wildebeest start heading north to Kenya, though the exact dates of departure depend entirely on the chief wildebeest and his zebra advisor.

Endangered Mountain Gorillas – Rwanda

Staring into the chocolate brown eyes of a mountain gorilla is like looking into your own soul. There’s a mutual recognition that we are close cousins indeed, maybe too close since mountain gorillas easily contract human diseases. This is why nobody who is ill with a cold or any other condition may trek for gorillas, and why a healthy seven metre distance must be maintained at all times from the gorilla group. If the gorillas move closer, you move back. No food may be eaten while with the gorillas either.

There’s just an hour to spend with them, that’s what’s allowed, but it is an intense hour. I found myself pondering the origin of our species and how all life is really interlinked. How we could be so similar yet so different, and how we presume humans are so superior. I felt I needed to apologise to the gorillas for human behaviour.

I saw the Sabinyo group, but there are a handful of groups habituated to humans. Then there are additional study groups that only researchers from the Karisoke Research Institute have access to. Still, every time a gorilla is born, it’s named and celebrated. And every time one is lost to the bush meat or exotic pet trade, there is despair because there are so few. Just about 250 remain on earth. And since mountain gorillas don’t survive in captivity, supporting their conservation by seeing them in the wild is their only real hope.

Africa’s only Wolf – Ethiopia

They’re elusive and beautiful and live in tiny pockets across Ethiopia, so seeing Africa’s only true wolf gliding across a mountain top is spectacular. Uniquely, Ethiopian wolves do not require an early morning wake-up call to see them. They only get going when the sun is up and the high altitude plateau they live on warms up a bit. As it gets warmer the giant mole rats come out, and so do the wolves – to catch one for breakfast.

In their habitat in the Bale Mountains National Park, the air is raspingly thin, so I was pleased that no physical effort was needed to see them. I drove up onto the 4 000m plateau in a Landcruiser, much like a game drive. After just a half hour of driving I spotted my first lone wolf, its burnt orange coat swiftly sailing across the scubby grey bushes. Then a pounce and he had his first mole rat, which he carried off to enjoy in peace.

It’s a 400km, full day, uber-bumpy drive to get from Addis Ababa to Goba near the base of the Sanetti Plateau, for a wolf visit the following morning. Then it’s a full day’s drive back again. But seeing these highly endangered creatures was well worth the effort. Just to see a wolf in Africa is a unique experience, and a slightly bizarre I thought.

Swimming with Dolphins – Zanzibar

Somehow swimming with dolphins perfectly complements the romance of Zanzibar. Swimming with sharks there just wouldn’t hold the same appeal.

I went out from Kizimkazi on the east coast, on a boat skippered by a Rastafarian. Boats are basic, possibly with a sunshade, but don’t expect cocktails or canapés on board. The skipper cruised around the dolphin territory until he spotted one, then I baled overboard with mask and snorkel issued, and swam. A helping hand will pull you back onto the boat again.

Of course, it’s entirely the choice of the dolphins if they want to hang around and play. Sometimes they do, sometimes they are just passing through. But I now know why dolphin therapy is successful and can even assist in curing illness. What tranquil, exquisite animals they are, with personalities of their own and a seemingly deep understanding of the human condition. Even if you just have two minutes in the water with them as they pass by, it’s an experience I will never forget.

First impressions

I had no idea what to expect in Rwanda, but a lush, peaceful, clean country filled with gentle, regal people was definitely not on my idea list at all. And that is exactly what I found. Now I know why Rwanda is called ‘Africa’s Switzerland’. Sure, it’s right on the equator and there are banana trees and terraces of vegetables, which are certainly not Swiss, but the landscape is magnificently beautiful and deep green. The little towns and villages are clean and well tended and the rural mud-brick homes even have handmade terracotta tiled roofs. Quite unexpectedly, the road network is excellent and tarred too. But the biggest surprise was the extensive cell phone coverage throughout the country. Rwanda is one pleasant surprise after another, all in the tiniest, most misunderstood country in Africa.

Rwandan culture

Everyone who has a television knows that Rwanda’s two main tribes are the Tutsi and the Hutus. They fought each other to the death nearly two decades ago, with the Tutsi suffering most, but I was again surprised and quite overwhelmed how they now live together harmoniously and deeply respect each others cultures. Most of the rural folk are Hutus and the tall, elegant, refined Tutsis live mostly in towns and villages. But everywhere I went I saw clearly that today there are only Rwandans, tribes are not distinguished and any prejudices are abhorred. Kinyarwanda and French are spoken throughout, along with English and Swahili.

Main attractions

Of course the highly endangered mountain gorillas are the best known drawcard to Rwanda, and trekking in the soaring Virunga mountains to see them is a life changing experience. While with the gorillas, I kept wondering who was watching who, since gorillas share 97% of our DNA. They could very well be ‘human viewing’ and be tickled at the lengths humans go to, to see them munching wild celery and romping on the mountain side.

Seeing the Karisoke Research Institute set up by Dian Fossey is also a must do. If you have seen Gorillas in the Mist, you will be walking in Dian’s footsteps all the time you are in the Virungas. It gave me a little chill, but a very pleasant one, and I felt like I was part of the iconic movie for a while.

Nyungwe Forest is a primeval tropical rainforest that is a true African Eden. Think of 275 different bird species – including paradise monarchs flitting through the forest canopy – providing amusement for the 500 wild chimpanzees that live there. The chimps are quite hard to find in their extensive habitat, and I didn’t see any – though I tried hard – but they are there for sure, along with black and white clown-like colobus monkeys and 11 other different primate species. There are also 120 different butterflies, 200 orchid species and 75 species of mammal in this magnificent forest.

Another surprise for me was Lake Kivu, a huge freshwater lake in the west that produces fine eating tilapia fish and is a holiday playground for locals. Seeing the traditional fishing methods was also quite comical. From their traditional boats, fishermen slap the water with long sticks, because they say it attracts the fish to the surface. To be honest, if I was a fish, I’d be scared to greater depths.

But just driving through Rwanda is in itself inspiring. To see how organically and peacefully the people live. Everyone is always busy, and I am completely convinced there are no lazy Rwandans. I also never saw one piece of plastic or litter in the countryside, which was a first for Africa. Some say it’s a sign of true poverty, that every piece of litter is burnt for fuel; I believe it’s the pride Rwandans take in their beautiful country.

Where to stay

There are swish hotels in the capital Kigali and on the languid Lake Kivu – five stars if you wish. In smaller towns there is always somewhere clean and hospitable to stay and the choice is increasing all the time. Basic accommodation in Rwanda is always pleasant, always clean, and the friendliness of the people makes up for not having Egyptian cotton sheets. For me, it was all part of the authentic experience of Rwanda – simple and real.

Dining out

In Kigali there are plenty of options, with great restaurants in the tourist hotels and many other local ones to try out. In smaller towns, I thoroughly enjoyed eating out with the locals in tiny establishments that always served a good plate of chicken and fresh vegetables. Along Lake Kivu, outdoor restaurants serve the fine fish from the lake – best grilled on an open fire. It’s so fresh you expect it to flap around your plate.

In a nutshell

Rwanda is astoundingly beautiful, peaceful and safe. It’s a truly extraordinary country with a lot to teach the rest of Africa about treasuring what you have – as they do their mountain gorillas, and forgiving past mistakes. The people are exemplary, serene, beautiful and utterly dignified. It’s an inspiring country everywhere you go

Farm terraces — Photo Credit: Heinrich van den Berg

Personal highlight

Seeing just how fast Rwandans have rebuilt their morale and their country after the genocide of 1994 – when a million people died in 100 days. Their fortitude, resilience and pride in their heritage are breathtaking. Everyone I spoke to was positive and energized, and they are all emphatic that, while they will never forget the past, they will never again allow such atrocities to happen again – and they believe the future is bright. I do too, because they live their words.